Taking Your Measurements

Measure Twice, Cut Once: How to Take Your Measurements & Choose Your Pattern Size

Here's a little secret about sewing your own clothes: The size you buy at the store has almost nothing to do with the size you'll sew.

Pattern sizes are based on body measurements, not the number on a clothing tag. So the most common mistake we see isn't measuring wrong. It's not measuring at all. You might be tempted to sew the size you’d pick up off the rack, but it’s likely that once you sew it, you’ll end up with something that doesn't fit. This equals fabric and time wasted, and, most likely, your confidence is left a bit shaken.

The good news? Taking your measurements takes about five minutes, and it's the single best thing you can do to make your first (or fiftieth) garment fit. Here's how.

Forget your premade store size

Every clothing brand sizes a little differently, and pattern companies have their own size charts, too. Don't be surprised if your pattern size is a number or two different from what's in your closet or if it varies from pattern company to pattern company. That's normal, and it doesn't mean anything about you. It's just a number that matches a chart. (And nobody will ever see it but you!)

What you need

• A soft tape measure. A soft, flexible fabric tape measure is a must-have in your sewing toolkit. Don’t have one? Stop by the shop, and we'll set you up.
• A friend or helper, if you can. It's hard to see whether the tape is level across your back when you're measuring yourself. A friend makes it easier and more accurate.
• The bra or undergarments you plan to wear with your finished garment, if applicable, and thin, close-fitting clothes (or just undergarments).
• Something to write with. You'll want these numbers again.

The three measurements that matter most 
For most tops, dresses, and skirts, you'll start with three numbers: bust, waist, and hip.

Where to measure bust, waist, and hip:

1. Bust
   Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your bust. Wear the bra you'll wear with your project, if this applies to you, since different bras can change this measurement.
2. Waist
   Your natural waist is usually the narrowest part of your torso. Not sure where that is? Bend to one side like a little teapot. Where your body creases is your natural waist.
3. Hip
   Measure around the widest part of your lower body, including your seat. This is often about 7 inches below your natural waist, but it can be lower. Keep your feet together.

A few tips for accurate numbers

• Keep the tape level. A tape that dips in the back can add an inch or more.
• Measure with the tape snug, not tight. The tape should lie flat against your body without squeezing.
• Stand naturally and breathe normally. No sucking in! You want clothes that fit the real you on a regular day.
• Write down the date. Bodies change, so take fresh measurements before each new project. Sound like a drag? If you haven’t done it in 6 months, update your numbers then or sooner if you know that your body has changed.

Some patterns have two charts

Flip over a pattern envelope (or open a PDF pattern), and you'll usually find two charts:

1. Body measurements. These are what you just took. They tell you which size to choose.
2. Finished garment measurements. These tell you how big the garment will actually be once it's sewn and how much ease is in the pattern/style.

Ease: What is it?
Ease is the extra room built into a pattern so you can breathe, sit, reach, and move! Some ease makes a garment comfortable, and extra ease is a style choice, like a breezy, oversized shirt. Understanding ease helps you choose patterns you'll love wearing. If you like your tops relaxed, look for more ease. If you like them closer to the body, look for less

Example: The Scout Tee by Grainline Studio is a T-shirt pattern fitted at the shoulders with a loose fall below the bust. A size 4 is designed for a 34” bust, but the finished tee measures 38.5” around the bust. That's 4.5” of ease, which puts it in the semi-fitted range.

Choosing your size

Now for the fun part! What size are you?

1. Find each of your measurements on the pattern's size chart.
2. Between sizes? Many designers suggest going up to the next size. You can always take in a little, but you can't add fabric that isn't there.
3. Different sizes for different measurements? Totally normal! You can blend between sizes, called grading, like a 2 at the bust, a 4 at the waist, and a 6 at the hip.
4. Check the finished measurements.

Fuller bust? Many patterns are drafted for one bust shape. Some companies offer cup sizes so you can get a better fit right out of the envelope. For example, the Harrison Shirt by Cashmerette comes in three cup sizes (C/D, E/F, and G/H).

Resist the urge to size up "just in case"
Maggie sees this all the time in class. Someone measures for a 6, then cuts a 10 “for more room,” and ends up with a garment that's way too big. Remember, the pattern already has ease built in. Trust your measurements!

Trace or cut your pattern?
You can either trace your printed pattern or you can cut your pattern pieces.

Tracing takes more time, but it has its pros:

• Every size stays available
• Blending between sizes is easier when you can see all the lines.
• Your original pattern stays safe if a traced piece gets torn or lost.

Label each traced piece with the pattern name, size, piece number, and any changes you made, and carefully transfer the grainline and markings (a ruler helps!). Need tracing paper? We keep rolls in the shop.

Consider sewing a test run with muslin
There are a few times when using unbleached muslin to test your project is a wise move. If you want to check sizing, try new techniques, or protect the amount of special fabric you’ve set aside for this garment, a muslin is a smart first step. It’s a bit time-consuming, but it can lead to a much more successful finished garment. This is just a test run, so no need for finishing. Maggie recommends using a longer stitch length to rip out if needed.

Ready to put your measurements to work?

Use this checklist to make sure that you take accurate measurements and choose the correct sizing in your pattern.

Here are a few patterns from our shelves with clear size charts and finished measurements, so you can practice everything above.

• Harrison Shirt by Cashmerette
• Ellis Skirt by Cashmerette
• Appleton Dress by Cashmerette
• Scout Tee by Grainline Studio

Harrison Shirt Shop the pattern Ellis Skirt Shop the pattern Appleton Dress Shop the pattern Scout Tee Shop the pattern

Want to see more? Browse all our garment patterns.

Garment sewing is for everyone, and fit gets easier with practice. If you'd like a hand, we'd love to help you read a size chart, choose a pattern, or pick out the perfect fabric!

• Stop by the shop: 69 Lafayette Road, North Hampton, NH
• Email us: hello@pintuckandpurl.sbs
• Take a class: View our calendar for upcoming classes. We offer garment sewing tutorials throughout the year.